Salt
If you've ever read one of Len Deighton's cookery books such as his Basic French Cookery Course, you will know that he has a pathological hatred of salt, describing it as "the enemy of the palate". Well, as much as I admire Mr Deighton and his absorbing and brilliantly illustrated books, I take this one, yes you guessed it- with a pinch of s...
There are various different types of salt. Most table salts are refined and probably obtained from rock, and the refining process involves chemicals and other nasties. Sea salt is obtained from the evaporation of sea water by sunlight. Fleur de Sel is an expensive hand-harvested sea salt found in Brittany and the Camargue.
One of the most delicious salts on the market is made by Maldon in Essex. The company's been around for a long time, and their natural sea salt is produced from the flat salt beds of the East Coast of England. Maldon salt looks slightly unusual, and has a different taste too. Instead of crystals there are flakes; and the salt has a natural, sea-sidey taste that melts on the tongue. If you haven't switched to Maldon yet (or a similar traditionally made salt) please do- because it will make a genuine difference to your food. I promise.


What??? "Salt: the enemy of the palate" in a French cookbook? The French have much saltier palettes than Americans. As an American salt-fiend myself, I have yet to have a meal in France that's undersalted, either in a home or restaurant. In American restaurants and homes, I frequently find myself having to sheepishly asks for a salt shaker.
Salt brings out the flavor in food. It's the friend of the palate.
Posted by: Tisha | Thursday, 11 October 2007 at 08:12 PM
Tisha,
I agree with you completely. Can you recommend an American salt to the readers of The Greasy Spoon?
Luke
Posted by: Luke | Friday, 12 October 2007 at 12:50 PM