Eggs Chesapeake

 

I've just got back from a quick business trip to Washington D.C. I like Washington: it's a grown up sort of place; understated, with fabulous museums and art galleries, swanky hotels, oodles of history, and fabulous eighteenth century colonial architecture in the Georgetown district.  Having a bit of time on my hands, I took refuge from the pouring rain at the Old Ebbitt Grill on 15th Street- almost literally a stone's throw from The White House; incredibly convenient for a certain Mr Barack Obama if he's suddenly feeling a bit peckish.

The Old Ebbitt Grill is a Washington institution, and many famous American politicians, movers and shakers have crossed its threshold over the years. The original restaurant was founded in 1856, and moved to it's present address in the 1980's. You could see this clearly in the decor: there was a nice old 19th century dial clock over the door (presumably brought over from the original restaurant), acres of dark mahogany and various historic bits and pieces scattered around the restaurant, but the whole effect was ruined by the huge and tacky wall murals, painted in particularly nasty shades of turquoise and beige.  

This reminded me of the fate of P.J. Clarke's in Manhatten. This used to be a lovely, shabby, Irish bar on 55th and 3rd; the haunt of Truman Capote, Jacqueline Kennedy and the like; with a dirty, cracked photograph of Abe Lincoln above the counter, grumpy Irish bartenders, and a 50's Juke Box that didn't work. And what did the new owners do?  They closed it down; ripped out all the original fittings, and then put everything back in again, exactly how it was- except, and it's a huge except, everything was not only identical, but also happened to be brand, spanking new. And guess what?  I suspect that, as a result, P.J.'s is now making vast amounts of money. 

Service at the Old Ebbitt was good, and I ordered Eggs Chesapeake with hash browns. This was a local variation on Eggs Benedict, with Maryland Crab Cakes thrown in for good measure, and a Hollandaise Sauce flavoured with Old Bay Seasoning.  

It should be easy to put together. Make Eggs Benedict in the usual way, but place the Maryland Crab Cakes on top of the ham slice, cover them with the top of the muffin, and then pour over the Hollandaise Sauce, to which you've previously stirred in a spoonful or so of spicy Old Bay Seasoning. It's simple, classic American food at its best.